by Giles Cadman
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A few weeks back I made notes on the phenomenal Bollinger R.D. 1990, and having been so impressed I decided to try a bottle of the Grande Année 2004 from my cellar. This cuvée is only released in ‘great’ years and comes from a single harvest. Bollinger selects its best wines from various crus and ferments them individually in oak casks prior to blending, after which point the wine is aged for at least five years in bottle before release.
Established in the early 19th century by Jacques Bollinger and Paul Renaudin, Bollinger remains under the control of the wider family and is synonymous with rich, complex, classic Pinot Noir dominated Champagnes with great aging potential. Whilst the estate does buy in some grapes, the vast majority are from its own vineyards to ensure the premium quality that consumers expect.
The 2004 Grande Année exhibits a wonderful lemon-gold hue with a fairly restrained bead which settles down quickly in the glass. It has fantastically aromatic nose of creamy white stone fruit, brioche, almond, marzipan and mineral notes. On the palate the depth of fruit is vibrant and rich, well supported by a keen streak of acidity, with nutty notes and very clean minerality as it leads through to a gorgeous long finish. Layered and stylish without being too showy, this really is a top-class Champagne, especially given its attractive price tag which puts it in a premium category but still brings it in comfortably below some of the common names out there. This is certainly a cuvée (along with the Grande Année Rosé), which I will be taking care to stock in future.
You may purchase Bollinger, Grand Annee, 2004 from Cadman Fine Wines.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.Clik here to view.
