by Giles Cadman
Maison Chapoutier owes its thriving existence in no small way to the dedication and energy of Michel Chapoutier. The firm was founded in the 19th century by Polydor Chapoutier and has remained under family control ever since. However by the late 1980s there were so many members of the family with an interest in the firm that little disputes had resulted in a considerable downturn in its fortunes.
Michel (at the age of 26) took the brave decision to buy the rest of his family out and has single-handedly revived the company and its reputation over the last twenty years. He is now regarded by many as one of the finest winemakers in the world today, and clearly he’s no mean businessman either!
At the top end of the wine production at Chapoutier are several highly prized vineyards in the northern Rhone appellation of Ermitage. Many connoisseurs would have it that the finest wines of Hermitage are comprised of grapes blended from a selection of these vineyards or climats, however Michel created (in addition to his blended wines) the Sélections Parcellaires – bottlings of single-climat wines of which Le Pavillon is one.
The Ermitage Le Pavillon is capable of reaching great age in bottle, and the 2000 is just entering its drinking window now. There are wonderful aromas of rich black fruit, liquorice and hints of oak on the nose – in some ways rather ‘New World’ in style, but very soon these characteristics make way for more earthy and savoury notes. The palate is richly textured and seamless with a superb concentration of fruit supported by peppery notes and a balancing minerality. The tannins are substantial yet fine, and everything seems to be coming together perfectly in harmony. I still think that this wine is just a baby and would be very surprised if it isn’t an absolute delight in ten years or so, with plenty of life remaining after that.
You may purchase Ermitage Le Pavillion, 2000 from Cadman Fine Wines for £135.00 a bottle or £810.00 a case of six.
